After returning from Viking’s Capitals of Eastern Europe cruise I’ve been thinking about the differences we noticed from our previous six European river cruises. I thought it might be helpful to share these observations with people who have signed up for this cruise on the Lower Danube or are thinking of doing so.
Viking Kadlin
We did not pick our ship up in Constanta as planned because of low water in the Danube delta. Viking bused us to a place further upstream where Viking Kadlin could dock. So, my comments start at that point and not the Black Sea.
The Lower Danube is Different
The Danube River is different on this stretch. The lower part of the Danube from Budapest to Bucharest is wider and slower than the upper part, although the Danube always has a swift current.
The Lower Danube at dusk
We saw much less traffic on this part of the Danube compared to the section between Budapest and the Rhine-Main-Danube Canal. That includes all kinds of shipping: river cruises, barges, personal vessels, etc. After the Grand European, the river seemed empty to me.
Also, you will go through only two locks on this stretch: Iron Gate I and Iron Gate II. Passengers who are lock geeks like me may find this disappointing, although the Iron Gate locks are significant and impressive. I filmed as Kadlin went through the lock because the doors into the hydroelectric plant’s turbine hall were open. You can see that video here:
Alas, the same thing applies to bridges. I love going under bridges, but the river is very wide and often the two banks are different countries that are not part of the European Union. Thus, few bridges span the Lower Danube. That all changes when you get to Budapest.
Cruising Under a Bridge in Budapest at Night
Countries and Currencies
The Capitals of Eastern Europe cruise goes through Romania, Bulgaria, Croatia, Serbia, Slovakia, Hungary, and Austria. Except for Austria, these countries are either not part of the Schengen, or of the Eurozone, and thus do not use Euros.
Each one has its own currency and prefers you to use it because Euros complicate the strength of their money supply. In Romania, the bills are plastic. Cards work well for everything but tips. Try to have local currency for tipping tour guides and drivers.
NOTE: Croatia will join the Schengen in January of 2026.
Aid and Access for the Disabled
I was recovering from ankle surgery during this cruise and using both a cane and a brace. That made access to some places difficult, and I avoided demanding excursions.
I covered this aspect of the trip in detail in a previous blog post and I will not repeat it here. You can read the blog post here:
Alphabets
Welcome to Mohacs
The majority of countries on this cruise use Cyrillic alphabets. I used a plural noun because each country seems to have a different one, some more unusual than others. Don’t try to read them; they do not have even remotely phonic pronunciations. But signs often include translations.
I find it helpful to photograph the signs welcoming you to the city or town where your longship docks. That tells you where all the subsequent photographs were taken. Months after your cruise, all those castles, churches and fortresses can start to look pretty similar.
A History of War
The Balkan countries have a long history of invasion and occupation, most prominently by the Ottoman Turks, who held it in their empire for 500 years. Our guide in Belgrade ran through the entire history, with dates. His knowledge was quite impressive, but I lost track somewhere in the middle. (To be fair, I was also paying attention to where I put my feet.)
The victorious general
You will hear about these conflicts in many places. You may also see them if you visit the Pleven Epopee 1877, in Pleven, Bulgaria. The Pleven Panorama, as it’s also called, memorializes a major battle fought here during the Russo-Turkish war of 1877-1878.
The building, which is shaped like a truncated cone, contains three halls displaying enormous paintings, weapons, uniforms, etc. You climb through the panorama hall, the diorama hall, and the final hall, which places you on a reconstructed battlefield in the center of a cyclorama. If you are a student of warfare, you will enjoy this museum.
The Scars of Violence
A scarred building in Vukovar, Croatia
All those years of rebellion and war have left visible scars, some from WWII and some from the more recent Croatian War of Independence. You will see bullet holes in buildings, ruined structures that were destroyed or abandoned, and the destruction left by shrapnel bombs.
These marks were sobering. They made me realize how fortunate America has been to be protected by oceans on either side.
The Commie Condos
The Balkan countries also suffered from years of domination by the Soviet Union. While not technically part of the USSR, they felt its influence and the Communist philosophy affected them a great deal. That means you will not see gorgeous architecture like the Baroque buildings of Germany, the spectacular palaces of France, or the elaborate churches of Italy.
Buildings typical of this later period tend to be plain to the point of ugliness, which is not improved by a lack of maintenance. The locals call such residential buildings the “commie condos.” Utilitarian architecture trumps decoration and beauty was not a consideration. The phrase “Less is more” may not have been born here but it certainly found a fertile home.
Although the Communist influence began to wane in the eighties, the Balkan countries still carry the weight of that history.
Beauty on the Lower Danube
St. Sava Cathedral
That is not to say, however, that you will be surrounded by ugliness. You will see castles, Nicolae Ceausescu’s enormous palace, many beautiful Eastern Orthodox churches including Belgrade’s spectacular St. Sava Orthodox Cathedral, fortresses, the dramatic Iron Gate gorge at the Danube’s narrowest point, the lights of Budapest at night, and the whipped-cream beauty of Vienna’s Winter Palace.
You will hear choirs sing and soloists perform. You will see performances of folk dances. If you like art museums, you can visit some very impressive collections. If you take the Viennese concert excursion you will see ballet and hear opera. (Highly recommended.)
After a long day of walking and climbing, however, the most beautiful thing you might see is another wonderful Viking dinner on its way to your table.
Knowing is Half the Battle
I hope this information helps anyone who is planning to take the Capitals of Eastern Europe cruise. The more you know, the better you can prepare. And the better prepared you are, the more likely it is you will enjoy your cruise.
Bon Voyage!
